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Meanwhile, one of the most interesting lots was number 123 - a complicated pocket watch from Abraham Breguet. This piece sparked a bidding war between two corporate giants: the Breguet museum versus the Patek museum. Patek won.
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For the 56KS, King Seiko produced three different movements that were part of Suwa’s automatic 5600 Calibre series. The Caliber 5621A/B were time-only movements, the Caliber 5625A/B featured a date display, and the Caliber 5626A/B featured a day and a date indication. All of them are Hi-Beat calibers despite operating at 28,800vph rather than the 36,600vph we see as the operating frequency nowadays for Grand Seiko’s Hi-Beat movements. But at the time, it was very much considered hi-beat. All the movements have 25 jewels and a power reserve of 47 hours. The movements are praised to this day for being very accurate even roughly five decades later.
The watch retails for CHF 13,800?with either the sail-canvas or NATO strap, or CHF 16,200?with the steel bracelet. Certainly not a cheap tool watch, but complications from the Villeret collection mixed with the revered Bathyscaphe line create a solid balance between sport and luxury. Add in the history of Blancpain and the Fifty Fathoms significance, and you have a nice, high-end piece for all occasions. More information about the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet Phase de Lune is available at Blancpain's website.
In 2015, he finally decided to start making watches full-time. Or, rather, make one watch. Three years later, he had finally finished his first real timepiece. Without resting on his laurels, he quickly switched to his next goal: create a self-designed, self-manufactured tourbillon for one of his clients. This particular man must have had some faith in Machiel and his endeavours because he paid a good portion of the watch in advance. A watch, that didn't even exist on paper yet. The client gave his input, and Hulsman made the designs. A couple of them quite outlandish, others more restrained and in the style of Hulsman himself. Together, they made up a completely – literally completely – bespoke watch.
I have to admit that I wasn’t expecting classic American cars to star in the latest Breitling capsule collection. However, it’s wise to assume the unexpected these days when it comes to the ever-evolving brand. The fact that these watches sit within the Top Time line seems fitting as well. After all, we have ’60s-based chronographs and cars from the same era. Blending cars and watches are a tough business with more failures than not. Was Breitling successful? Let’s take a look.
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His first creation was named after a musical term, the?Praeludium or Prelude (in English). The Staudt Praeludium Hand-Wound (reviewed here) was inspired by nautical elements, ships and marine chronometers, resulting in a classical, elegant but still rather casual watch – with clear Portuguese” design elements, yet with a rather affordable price and an overall excellent quality. After several iterations of this inaugural piece, followed by a simple automatic version, this model today receives a new movement and becomes a classy chronograph.
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It feels a lot like previous versions of the HyperChrome chronograph. It's large but lightweight, and wears deceptively smaller than you'd expect. What's interesting, though, is the juxtaposition of new and old. And I suspect that as that bronze patina deepens so too will that interest.